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The last days of Rhodes

II can feel myself slowly starting to relax. Yesterday we had a slow start to the day just lazing around our cute little apartment in the old town. All the doors and windows open to let in the glorious weather, and all the sounds of the neighbours going about their business - I guess at home it would drive me nuts, but here it seems charming and quaint - I think it definitely helps that I can't understand the language!

We then spent most of the afternoon visiting the Archeological Museum. An amazing building built within the walls of the city in the 14th century, it started out as a hospital, and was designed to be bio lunatic - suited to the local weather, and cool in summer. It certainly made it easy to spend time there.  

The round stone stacked up are cannon balls - about 30 cms in diameter, and would do serious damage.

One display of Rhodian antiquities is on loan from the Louvre. As with so many places, the best art and sculpture was taken to other countries over the centuries by marauding hordes, foreign rulers, and treasure hunters. But there were still fabulous galleries filled with pottery, jewellery, statues, plinths, and burial riches. It was amazing to see the plain and ornate safety pins for holding clothes together. And there was a lovely internal garden with ornate mosaics - apparently family and guests would sit on benches around the mosaic drinking wine while admiring the art.

Then a swim under the battlement walls

Followed by a kebab in town where the big fat old man tried to rip us off! Ha, we were having none of it  -  mind you we did end up paying 3€ for a small bottle of water!

Spent the evening drinking Retsina with our host Heidi - a Swiss-German who has lived in Greece for 30 years. Interesting to get a local perspective rather than a purely tourist one.

Today is our last day in Rhodos and we went and did some touristy things - we caught the tourist train for a 45 min trip around the city. I was expecting to sit back and admire the things we'd already seen, but it also took us up into the hills above the town where we saw a small acropolis, and gorgeous views of the coast.

Then we went across to the harbour and took a short cruise - it was cool because the one we booked was cancelled ( problems with the skipper apparently - ha, it's Sunday morning lol), so we got upgraded to another boat that was twice the price - and there were only 4 of us onboard.  There's lots of fancy (expensive) yachts and launches in the harbour so we imagined that we were part of that crowd!

Off to Naxos tomorrow.

Greek islands and Syrian refugees

Another stunning day of clear blue skies  over a sparkling sea.  We took a boat trip to the nearby island of Symi. Much smaller than Rhodes, with a very picturesque village. The ferry is the kind I remember from Greece - like a small ship that also takes cars and cargo. There would have been 3-4 hundred tourists onboard the slow 2 hour cruise along the coast of Turkey. A dry forbidding coastline with quite high crumbling cliffs in places, and no vegetation or signs of habitation. We came really close to Turkey, and it makes you think of the closeness of the borders in this part of the world, and how hard it must be to control/patrol/maintain/contain them. Nothing like our vast maritime boundaries.

The tourists on board appeared to be mostly from all over Europe with lots of different languages being spoken, and English not the majority. There were no cruise ships in the harbour so they would have all been staying at the local hotels. Lots of yachts out and about as well, so you have a picture of reasonable affluence and an indolent holiday atmosphere.

It's hard to see the crumbling Greek economy here, where the locals work hard over the summer months, and the tourists throng. Although apparently visitor numbers are down this year. It will be interesting to see if/how things are different in Athens.

Symi lived up to it's reputation and delivered a charming village built around a natural harbour. Not the blue and white houses of the Greek tourist hoots, but softly coloured stone houses that from a distance blend in with the rocky brown landscape. The island has a history of fishing and ship building, and there is a man made sea wall and roadway following the natural curves of the land.

While the tour groups huddled with their guides to discover the history, shopping and steep alleyways, we wandered along the Seawall admiring the small fishing boats, the shops selling sea sponges and looters, and the steep steps up to the houses that would surely keep you fit.

We came to the Police station right on the waterfront, and built by the Italians in the 1940's. Something was clearly going on as there were lots of men up on the veranda, and clothes and towels hanging over to dry.  My first thought was some kind of excursion party, but then I saw the clusters of people huddled in the shade of the clock tower - meagrel belongings spread about. Mostly young men, but a few women wearing headscarves, and a handful of small children. I saw a couple of cheap life vests, but no obvious boat that they would have arrived on - there is now a growing business in the transportation of refugees. Some of the young men had cellphones (and really nothing else) and I wondered about this - we looked it up later and it's how the refugees keep up with family, and also with news of those ahead of them and the best routes to take to Northern Europe. They must also have some money to be able to pay boatmen to drop them off at these islands that are so close to the Turkish mainland. 

We had seen a few Syrian refugees begging in Istanbul and they had an air of desperation about them. These ones on Symi  had made it to an outpost of Europe and appeared calm. One of the woman and I smiled at each other, and I felt inadequate. Later we saw the Police take some of the group to the ferry booking agency, where I presume they would begin the next stage of their journey.

It was a surreal experience that brought home the difficult and complex situation in this region of the world, and how removed we are from it in NZ. It was some small consolation that this group was being looked after by the local Police.

Hot

Went to the local vege market - peaches that taste like peaches, fat luscious tomatoes, and shiny capsicums. Sardines and huge watermelons, and home cure green olives from a big barrel. All the locals out doing their shopping. I bought an ugly hat for 3€ - it had to be done as I'd forgotten to pack my peak.

An early morning walk through the old town, and lots of cool photos.

That's Ros up on the ramparts.

It's a major accomplishment to achieve little in a day, and takes practice - I'm working on it. There's the important decisions such as where shall we have dinner tonight, and what do you feel like eating, and what will we do tomorrow. All these things take time to work out. But in the meantime a swim.

The water is divine.

Dinner was at a local 'Traditional Greek restaurant'. Interesting enough, and the taramasalata (fish roe paste) was yummy, however I make better moussaka on a bad day. But Ros loved her fresh grilled sardines (why would anyone love sardines really). And the waiter was from Albania, not Greek at all. 

Rodos

We're staying in an old stone house with thick walls and deep marble window sills. There's an outdoor courtyard with a lemon tree and a tiny glimpse of the sea. We have a kitchen, so decided to make coffee - and it was indescribably awful. We thought it was the hard bore water so used bottled. Still disgusting. Then we thought it was the scale on the pot we were using, so tried another.  Bought new coffee, and still no joy. And finally - yuck, it's the milk! 

A slow start yesterday and then of course we went outside at 'mad dogs & englishmen' hour. Blazing hot sun, & thousands of tourists off the 3 huge cruise ships in the harbour. We explored the ramparts on the way to the nearest beach.

Things are not always what they seem.

The beach was  packed with deck chairs and umbrellas almost as far as the eye could see, and we were heading for the point and a bit of peace and quiet - pointless really. But the sea was a delight - deep clear blue against a cloudless sky, and the water is clean and refreshing.

Very pebbly though.

We ate souvlaki (roast lamb sandwiches) for lunch and retired to our hacienda for the heat of the afternoon - 33 degrees, and baking.

Dinner at a local restaurant, complete with musicians playing bouzoukis, and traditional Greek music. Nice for a change as so much is geared towards tourists tastes, that you have to go looking for the more authentic.

And finally for Dean - some pictures of the local roads in Rhodes - lol

Istanbul to Rhodes

On our last night in Istanbul we went to a rooftop restaurant with stunning views out over the harbour & the Asian side of the city. We had eggplant dip with fresh flat bread, and I had Iskender kebab with thinly sliced lamb, tomato sauce, salad and zatziki - or whatever the Turkish word is for yoghurt with cucumber.  The waiter told us about his 3 day old baby (his first), and showed us photos of her - he was pleased as punch - still had to go to work though. I guess they don't have paid parental leave in Turkey.

Ros missed breakfast on our last day due to a traveller's affliction which will unfortunately cause her to be thinner than me! So I did my best with fruit and fresh pancakes.  Then we rattled our cases up the cobblestones and caught a couple of trams out to the airport - not much to look at in the burbs of Istanbul really.

Great flight to Athens on Turkish Airlines - in an hour & 20 mins we had drinks, and a prepared tray with loads of goodies - best of all the salmon with potato salad. I also watched a movie (Woman in Gold), but unfortunately didn't get to see the end.  We flew over the Dardanelles & Gallipoli & across the Aegean Sea. It was really weird because our bags were booked through to Rhodes, but we had to go through Immigration and Customs in Athens without our luggage - odd, and of course I was wondering if our bags would turn up at all - they did!

A quick turnaround and we went back in the air heading south east to Rhodes. Yes I know it was slightly backtracking, but it seemed the easiest way - sometimes traveling is easier said than done.

Rhodes has a very ancient history of Neolithics, Dorians, Romans, Knights, Ottomans, Italians, Germans, and Greeks. They have a history of shipping which played a part in today's maritime laws, and they sent boats to fight in the Trojan War.  The walled city where we're staying is one of the finest in Europe, and World Heritage listed. We had to meet our host at one of the gates as there's few street signs, and no numbers.  Only locals can drive into the city, and even then there's only so many streets that would fit a car. Pesky scooters zip around though - bouncing up and down on the uneven stone pathways.

Some old men sit out on the roadside in the cool of the evening and pass the time of day.

I wonder if I should join them?

Predinner drinks at another rooftop bar before an early night.

 

Our last day in Turkey

A beautiful day - cloudless blue sky with a light breeze and low humidity - a perfect day to get out on the water. First stop the Blue Mosque - when we were here last we were I think the only tourists in the mosque at the time. The entire floor was covered with different hand made carpets, and the many stained glass windows shone coloured lights onto lazy dust motes in the still and quiet. Today we queued in the machine that is tourism. We were handed shawls, & plastic bags for our shoes. The mosque has been renovated with new carpet throughout, and the inside is stunning - but it's not the same when you have to share the experience with so many clamouring to get to the rail to take selfies - that's the other thing they're selling on the streets. Selfish I know.

Selfie!!'

On leaving the mosque we were waylaid by a carpet sales man - against my better judgment I allowed him to lead us to his shop. What a fabulous experience. I was served with a little glass of apple tea and while I drank it we chatted about Istanbul. When the tea was finished we had a show of different types of carpets, and Mustaf gave us a quick lesson on what to look for in a quality carpet. Of course I liked the silk on silk best - the most expensive. And when we left without buying there was no hard feelings and no hard sell.

But we had to get to the harbour. We took a ferry to the Asian side, and it was lovely - lots of boats plying their trade, and marvellous scenery. Uskudar dates from the 7th century BC. It's a residential area and not touristy. We had tea on the promenade and sauntered with the best of them. Did I mention the beautiful day - I did get a bit sunburnt.

We checked out one of the mosques, and ventured into the market streets - goat head anyone? Tripe? And we even found our first supermarket  - who would have guessed the Turks like plastic cheese and luncheon too - no pork mind.

Back across the harbour and into the fray - the plan was to visit the carpet museum, after our interest was piqued, but alas they're closed on Mondays. Well it must be beer o'clock then. Laters...

Sunday in Istanbul

We were waiting outside Aya Sofya before it opened so we could avoid the worst of the crowds. 

It started life as a church in 5 hundred & something - built in 6 years by 100,000 slaves & 1,000 engineers. Ok the main dome collapsed a few years later, but they managed to fix that problem - architects eh.  Anyway it lasted as a Christian church for nearly a thousand years before the rise of the Ottomans .

Then the minarets were added and the edifice became a mosque for 500 years. It's now a huge museum full of history.

After having fab weather so far, it absolutely bucketed down as we were leaving the church/mosque/museum, so I sat down on the marble floor of the exit hall to wait it out - & promptly started a trend - that's me, a trendsetter.

The afternoon cleared up and we took a 5km walk around the waterfront - a bit like Tamaki drive without the houses. Being Sunday there were lots of couples and families strolling, and groups of men huddled in amongst the rocks picnicking and making tea out of samovars. And even a few hardy men & boys swimming - the tide fair clips along at the convergence of the 2 seas.

Street food here seems to be seasonal, and at the moment it's chargrilled sweet corn, roasted chestnuts, and sesame coated pretzels. And everyone flocks to these foodcarts.

There's simply throngs of people in Istanbul - and everything from tourists in shorts and singlets, to devout Muslims in the full black regalia with just the eyes showing.

And it's a beautiful city on 2 sides across the Golden Horn, and more ancient suburbs across the Bosphorus. And of course spectacular mosques dominating the skyline.

And everyone is so friendly - of course they want you to buy or eat something, but there's no pressure, and they simply like to chat. They also like to get in my way when I'm walking, but perhaps it's not personal!

After dinner we wandered the old hippodrome where 100,000 people used to gather in Roman times to watch chariot races. There's nothing left of the hippodrome except for 3 ancient plinths; 1 of which is said to be 3 & 1/2 thousand years old, & originally came from Egypt - it way doesn't look that old.

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Istanbul day 2

Decided to do what I love to do in cities, and that's get up early and go wandering before the crowds appear. Went and checked out the Blue Mosque - well as far as the courtyard - the mosque itself was closed for prayers so will have to go back. But so beautiful with no people around. Then we found a plinth marking the beginning of the Roman road, which was used as a starter point for measuring distances to other places- amazing to think that our systems for measuring road distances came from that point.

Back to the guesthouse for breakfast - fresh fruit (peaches, pears, plums, watermelon), Turkish yoghurt (slightly tangy & runny, & nothing like shop stuff), cereal, breads, fresh pancakes, jams, creamy nut butters, then flavoured cream cheeses & feta, tomatoes & cucumber, pickled veggies & different olives, dried fruits, cakes, biscuits & pastries...incredible! And of course coffee - such a relief after HK to get good coffee.  This does make it hard to get moving in the morning.

Next stop the Basilica Cistern. An amazing underground water cistern with columns and domed ceilings. Built 527-565 AD it has these amazing columns holding up the roof- and apparently they were taken from older buildings, so they're not all the same. There's a bit of water still in the bottom, and fish swimming about - it was renovated in the late 1980's with walkways, mood lighting, and music. Very cool.

We wandered down to the waterfront via Topkapi Palace (didn't go in because Ros hates the glorification of obscene wealth at the expensive of the poor - haha, actually it just didn't appeal & the crowds were unbelievable!). So we took to the back streets & had a chat with a shopkeeper who asked us if we knew John Keys middle name- we didn't, and it's Phillip!  

The waterfront and harbour were teaming with people so we caught the tram up to the Grand Bazaar- like that wasn't going to be busy. Gold,silver,carpets,ceramics,copper,antiques,fabrics - tea sellers weaving in and out. Painted peeling covered ceilings; wide and narrow alleys, cafes and spice shops, and twists and turns everywhere. Lucky I have a great sense of direction! I bought Turkisk delight - fig & pomegranate & pistachio- delicious,

There's a breeze blowing today so it's not too hot, about 29 degrees with not too much humidity. Perfect for a beer on the rooftop terrace of the guesthouse overlooking the Bosphorus & the Sea of Marmara.

The Blue Mosque 

Istanbul - 1st impressions

A lot has changed in the last 35 years. In 1980 it was the tail end of the hippie trail and Turkey was an exotic blend of East & West. Accommodation was basic, & the power & water only worked for a few hours each day. Incredible mosques everywhere you look, with stunning skylines, & the haunting calls of muezzins calling the faithful to prayer.

Well the mosques are still there, & they looked amazing tonight lit up in the sky.  You can still hear the calls, & see the black clad women in the streets. And we even had black tea today in little glasses with sugar cubes. But we also did a tram ride through the 'new city' that almost would have passed for Newmarket, and the boats selling fresh fish sandwiches off the wharf are not small fishing boats where the smiling fisherman cooks you fresh mackerel in a wok on the back of his boat, but glitzy pontoons with charcoal burners & fancy awnings with lots of seating.

Obviously nothing stays the same, & that's what we came to see.

We ate doner kebab from a humongous spit, & had an eastern Mediterranean feast for breakfast.  We wandered the old town, and caught trams and fununculars, and side stepped a million people.  The houses and gardens look well kept, and the whole place more prosperous. Otherwise not much looked familiar.

But then we saw 'The Pudding Shop' - a cafe/restaurant that's been going since the 60's - and still there. We used to eat & hangout at Lale's pudding shop, and met many interesting characters there - including a gurner from England. One of the waiters has been there since 1979!  Of course the place looks nothing the same (though they do have a lot of memorabilia), so now we've been wracking our brains to bring up old memories.